In February 1970 the editors of American Heritage published “A Wrecker’s Dozen,” by David McCullough. It predicted the destruction of thirteen American buildings and lamented the lack of a widespread conservation ethic in the United States. A while ago G. W.Leaworthy of Titusville, Florida, wrote to us, asking what had happened to the doomed buildings. We decided to find out, and we’re happy to report the news is mostly good. by Samuel Sifton
As was not at all predictable two decades ago, historic preservation is now the credo of American development; our architectural landmarks are revered and well protected. The National Trust for Historic Preservation wields its strong influence at both the state and national levels and currently has open to the public seventeen historic house museums across the United States. This was not always the case. In the 1950s and 1960s urban renewal projects facilitated the demolition of hundreds of notable buildings and the construction of indistinctive and cheap replacements for them. Carl Nelson of the National Trust says that these programs might have been better termed urban removal programs, because they needlessly destroyed so many buildings. He attributes the rise in architectural conservation in part to the recognition by so many Americans of the damage wreaked on their downtowns in the name of progress. In 1970 “A Wrecker’s Dozen” came out of this environment of despair, at a point when historic preservation was still caught in the throes of adolescence. The National Trust was a small organization then, and local preservation groups were few and far between. In those days it was only reasonable to expect that the buildings would be torn down to make room for new structures.
Here’s how the wrecker’s dozen fared:
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
The Pennsylvania Railroad Station Rotunda was saved, and the building still stands. Its baroque facade and interior have been completely restored to their 1902 splendor, and arches glowing, the rotunda greets passengers coming to and going from Pittsburgh on Amtrak’s Western Pennsylvania Line as it has done for more than three-quarters of a century. The adjacent station was saved too; it is now divided into retail and residential units.
Chicago, Illinois
The Grand Central Station and Clock Tower, finished in 1890 and a fine example of the Romanesque style, was demolished in 1970 shortly after our original article ran. The building site, which lies parallel to the South Branch of the Chicago River, was used briefly as a sculpture park but now lies vacant.
Grand Rapids, Michigan
City Hall fell prey to the plague of urban development even as our article went to press. The building had been erected in 1888 and designed by Elijah E. Meyers (the architect of the state capital at Lansing). Its Victorian Gothic design and beautiful clock tower made it one of the finest in Grand Rapids. It was not felled easily. A local preservation group protested vigorously, and one woman went so far as to chain herself to the wrecking ball, all to no avail. Despite the loss of the hall, the group was able to save much of the Downtown Historic District. Today, says Gordon Olson, the city’s historian, buildings still face the threat of demolition, and not every structure is saved; “but at least it’s an open, well-explored issue.”
Poughkeepsie, New York
Springside, the estate of Matthew Vassar, founder of Vassar College, was rescued. Its gatehouse is the only surviving major work of the nine-teenth-century architect Andrew Jackson Downing. Condominiums occupy about 50 percent of the estate’s forty acres, and the buildings themselves must contend with the vandals who plague them. Nevertheless, a recent grant has allowed the restoration process to begin, and it is thought that Vassar’s home will be completely restored by the mid-1990s.
San Francisco, California
The Old Mint, too, was saved. An austere building, designed by A. B. Mullett and built in 1869, it survived the cataclysmic earthquake of 1906. The subsequent fire that raged through the city threatened the building, but mint employees and soldiers fought it for seven hours, saving the nation some two hundred million dollars in new cash. Today the building serves as a museum.
Denver, Colorado
The Emmanuel-Sherith-Israel Chapel, built in 1876, is still standing. Originally an Episcopal church of mixed Romanesque and Gothic design, it was converted into a synagogue in 1903 and remained one until 1963. Threatened by a large urban renewal project in the late 1960s, the building was almost lost. Late in 1969, however, the chapel was accepted by the National Register and subsequently saved. It is now a private residence.
Washington, D.C.
The Franklin School, built in 1868 and 1869 to the design of the architect Adolph Cluss, is a majestic brick structure in northwest Washington. Its innovative design and imposing towers provided a model for educational institutions around the world for much of the nineteenth century. Virtually abandoned by the superintendent of schools, this building, from which Alexander Graham Bell sent the first wireless telephone message in 1880, was in severe danger in the early 1970s. It is now the home of the Adult Training Center of the D.C. public school system, and extensive restoration will begin later this year.
The other D.C. buildings were saved as well. The Alva Belmont House, which is now known as the Sewall-Belmont House, is one of the oldest residences on Capitol Hill. Its first section is thought to have been built by Lord Baltimore in 1632, and the main house was added by Robert Sewall in 1800. Leased by Albert Gallatin, Secretary of the Treasury under Presidents Jefferson and Madison, the house is supposed to have been the site where Gallatin worked out the finances for the Louisiana Purchase of 1803. When set upon by British troops in 1814, the house was partially destroyed by fire, but it was restored to become one of Washington’s social centers. In the early 1970s the building was almost demolished to make room for a new Senate parking lot; a bill declaring it a National Historic Site saved it. Now the Sewall-Belmont House is a nonprofit museum operated by the National Women’s party.
The west front of the U.S. Capitol also came very close to being demolished. A proposal to redesign and extend the structure was put forth in 1966 by J. George Stewart, at that time the official capitol architect (although he himself was not an architect). The plan, which would have removed the only remaining visible Benjamin H. Latrobe and Charles Bulfinch designs at the Capitol, was considered feasible as late as 1982, although its necessity had been refuted in 1970 by an independent consulting firm. A vote in the House during the summer of 1983 canceled plans for the extension, and it is now free of danger.
Hudson, New York
The Hill, which was built in 1796 for Henry Livingston, a justice of the Supreme Court and hero of the Ticonderoga campaign, was dismantled in 1983 after a serious fire in the early 1970s ravaged it. Modeled after a Palladian villa, the mansion overlooking the Hudson River has been replaced by a contemporary private residence.
The General Worth Hotel, an 1837 model of urban Greek Revival design, was demolished in late 1969 after a long and heated battle between concerned citizens and the town’s mayor, Samuel T. Wheeler. The hotel was designed by Isaiah Rogers on the model of the Tremont House in Boston. Lincoln stopped at the Worth during his inaugural trip to Washington in 1861, and it was long considered the finest hotel in the northern Hudson Valley. In its place today is an electrical supply company and a parking lot.
Los Angeles, California
The Walter Luther Dodge House, Irving Gill’s sprawling 1916 design for the millionaire creator of Tiz, “for tired feet,” was an early architectural triumph for reinforced concrete. A ranchlike structure of the early International Style, it joined a large garden with a bilevel house, a raised swimming pool, and a two-car garage. The best preserved of Gill’s houses in the 1950s, it was destroyed in 1970 and is now the site of an apartment complex.
Destrehan, Louisiana
The Destrehan Manor House, to round out the wrecker’s dozen, was saved. Built in 1787, it is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Early this century the property was sold to the Mexican Oil Company, which operated a refinery on the site; when the refinery was abandoned in 1958, the house fell into disrepair. The River Road Historical Society took over the property in 1970 and has almost completely restored it. About twenty-five miles from New Orleans, the Destrehan Plantation is now a museum and National Historic Site.
A NEW WRECKER’S DOZEN
Five buildings destroyed and eight saved. Considering that we predicted the imminent demise of all thirteen, we are more than happy to have been less than half right. A preservation ethic had taken root in America in 1970. We just weren’t aware of it yet. Although the urban renewal programs of that day seemed to be breeding upon themselves, growing ever larger and more destructive, preservation groups all over America were beginning to stand up and fight for our shared architectural heritage.
The threats to buildings in 1990 are very different. Today landmarks are being crushed into rubble not so much for reasons of urban renewal as for reasons of safety. Many buildings have simply been neglected for too long and are falling apart. Listed here, for example, is a wrecker’s dozen for the 1990s, thirteen endangered American landmarks. We say endangered rather than doomed because the National Trust (which, along with local preservation groups, was instrumental in putting this list together) is a much more influential organization in America than it was twenty years ago, and in twenty more years’ time all thirteen of these buildings may still be standing. Or so we hope.
Unalaska, Alaska
The Holy Ascension Orthodox Church, situated on an inlet in the Aleutian Islands, is the oldest church in Alaska; its earliest sections date to 1826. Topped by the traditional onion-shaped domes of the Russian Orthodox Church, it is filled with a rich collection of icons crafted by the Aleut people. Although the church was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1970, it is in jeopardy because of serious deterioration. Ephraim, Utah The United Order Store was built in 1871 and 1872. This Mormon cooperative general store is one of the state’s best examples of Greek Revival architecture. It was the original location of Snow College, a small community school founded in 1888, and is one of only two existing Latter-day Saint United Order Stores in Utah. The building is threatened by deterioration, but a local group is raising funds to save it.
New York, New York
Located on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, the York Avenue Estate was built as model tenements between 1901 and 1913 in response to the appalling housing conditions of New York’s working poor. Constituting an entire block, the buildings are decorated with stylish details and curved pediments. Though designed as an experiment, the estate provided decent, attractive homes at affordable prices. They are threatened by the astounding rise in land values in this now wealthy neighborhood.
New London, Connecticut
The Rippin Cottage, which overlooks the Thames River, is where Eugene O’Neill recuperated from his first battle with tuberculosis and where he drafted some of his earliest plays during the winter of 1913-14. Built in the 186Os, the Carpenter Gothic cottage with picturesque dormer windows and scrolled brackets was to be razed to make room for a new summer home. The only house in New London where O’Neill spent the winter, it has recently been restored.
Lexington, Kentucky
The Senator Pope House, a late Federalist style structure built in 1811, is the only surviving building in Kentucky designed by America’s first great architect, Benjamin H. Latrobe. Built for John Pope, a senator from Kentucky and later the territorial governor of Arkansas, the house suffered a damaging fire in October 1987. The roof was destroyed, and the house, subdivided in 1917 into apartments, nearly razed. The Bluegrass Trust is presently attempting to renovate the structure.
Aiea, Hawaii
The Natatorium is a public swimming-pool complex designed by Louis Horbart; it opened in 1927 as a memorial to Hawaiian men and women who died in World War I. Surrounded by palm trees and classical bleachers, the hundred-meter pool boasts a four-level diving tower, a slide, and a floating boom to close off the diving area. The handsome dressing rooms and arcade have arched windows that face a park; the other side faces the sea and the skyline of Waikiki. The popular saltwater pool has been closed since 1979 because of structural deficiencies.
Boston, Massachusetts
The Dillaway-Thomas House was originally built in 1750-54 as the parsonage for Boston’s First Church. The Reverend Oliver Peabody lived there, and the building was probably the headquarters of Gen. John Thomas of the Continental Army during the siege of Boston. One of the few surviving examples of eighteenth-century domestic architecture in Boston, the modest two-and-a-half-story Georgian structure is losing its nearly 250-year battle with New England winters.
The Hayden Building, a narrow five-story commercial building faced with roughhewn brownstone in the heart of Boston’s red-light district, is the last extant structure in the area designed by the architect H. H. Richardson. Built in 1875, the building has a clean and unornamented facade; it marks a great departure from the complicated and highly decorative Victorian style that preceded it. The Hayden Building is threatened by plans to redevelop the entire area.
Spokane, Washington
The Davenport Hotel, built in 1913, was once the grandest hotel in the inland Northwest. A gigantic structure of the Chicago school with a Florentine facade and much terra-cotta detailing, the building today stands empty as its owners search for a developer to renovate it.
Savannah, Georgia
The Central of Georgia Railway Company Shop, built between 1850 and 1855, is an elegant and complex example of mid-nineteenth-century industrial design. Serving the most important railroad in the Southeast in the years preceding the Civil War, the Savannah station was considered both beautiful and practical by contemporary observers. Despite efforts by the city, the structure is deteriorating.
Las Vegas, Nevada
The Old Fort, an adobe square built by Mormon missionaries in 1856, was designed to provide a safe way station between communities in Great Salt Lake and San Bernardino. Now owned by the city of Las Vegas, the fort needs public support and renovation in order to stay open.
Portland, Maine
On Fore Street, in the midst of a tundra of parking lots, is a modest commercial building, completed in 1866. Once the site of a provisions store for the nearby waterfront, the building now stands neglected. The developer who owns the property recently lost an appeal for permission to demolish the structure and now plans to build around it. The building will probably be turned into a restaurant.
Los Angeles, California
The McKinley Mansion, surrounded by gardens and detailed with rare and exotic woods from all over the world, was designed by the architectural firm of Hunt and Burns in 1914. Once the home of a funeral parlor magnate, the house with its Italian Renaissance-based design is being moved, piece by piece, to Chatsworth, California, in order to make room for condominiums.
Samuel Sifton is an assistant editor of this magazine.