The sun scorches down on the car, baking the black vinyl seats. They feel pliant as new tar. Tank top and shorts—the uniform of choice—offers no respite, and my bandanna is soaked in minutes. Sweat stings my eyes. The wind through the car’s open windows feels like a steady breeze from an oven: constant, unbearable. This is Vietnam in mid-July.
I wanted to be an expert on Vietnam War literature, but I also wanted to experience a Vietnam outside the books, a Vietnam before capitalism changed the country’s face entirely.
I am on my way to visit the site of the 1968 My Lai Massacre during the American war. On that day, March 16, soldiers from Charlie Company spent four hours firing and slashing away at the villagers of Tu Cung in what the Americans called Pinkville in Quang Ngai province. At the same time, in the nearby hamIet of Co Luy, members of Bravo Company were murdering dozens of civilians. A total of 504 unarmed people were killed.